Thursday, January 28, 2010

Namaskar!


An Eeenglish person or for that matter a Jahman person drives along a deserted road and comes across a traffic light on red. He slows down, he stops and waits. Only if the light does not change for a few minutes will he look around furtively and, provided there are not signs of any authority figures around,  drive slowly past the red light feeling rather naughty.

An Indian drives along a deserted road and comes across a traffic light on red, he does not even slow down but sails past as though it was not there.

Now: The English person is alarmed at the Indians behavior, The light is clearly there for a good reason after all, it’s a matter of safety isn’t it?  The slight inconvenience of stopping is far outweighed in his mind by the possibility of an accident and maybe injuries to himself of other people if the light’s command is ignored.

The Indian thinks the English persons behavior is stupid, crazy even; why waste time stopping when there is nobody about?

Of course both are right in their own way and this example serves to illustrate a fundamental difference in the thought processes of Indian and North Western Europeans.

Another driving based example: An Englishperson is in a slow moving queue of traffic and sees somebody trying to turn into the queue from a side road. Many people ( BMW drivers and white van man excepted) will signal or flash and slow down a bit allowing that person to filter in in front of them. This action they reason has slowed thier journey by a couple of seconds at most and has given both themselves and the driver they have allowed in a nice warm feeling.

This simply, never, ever, happens in India. To allow somebody in is to acknowledge ones inferiority to that person. The person allowed in would never acknowledge the small act of courtesy as that would also signal an inferiority.

I’m constantly told not to say ‘Danyawad’ (thank you) to waiters as they are ‘only waiters and I am a Sahib’. When I do say it, the look of extreme puzzlement on the recipients face is not, I am assured, because they do not understand my accent but because they cannot understand why a sahib is thanking a waiter.
Again, one would only ever say ‘please’ ( Lie Ee Ay) to somebody who is deemed to be ‘above you’ In a restaurant one says ‘Bring  water now!’ ( Ek pani la!), never Ek pani lie ee aye!

These cultural differences underlie virtually all interactions with Indian people and need to be fully understood before those people can be understood. It’s so easy to end up thinking ‘What a rude bastard’ when a person is simply behaving in the normally accepted manner.

Nevertheless, I’m always finding myself thinking ‘WARB’ !

Then there’s the old time keeping issue…….. Arriving on time signifies that you are inferior to the person you are meeting and the length of time that you keep people waiting indicate the degree of superiority you have or feel capable of wielding. A shopkeeper has to be really desperate for business to deal with a customer immediately! If in his shop, you are on his turf and he is therefore in control.
There an oft used phrase here: ‘Eck minute, eck minute!’ ( literally ‘One minute’) this will mean anything between five minutes and one hour.
Drives me ( and all the other Eeengleeesh ex pats I know) mad.

OK ( Teigh – hei:  pron -  teekay) Enough of this, its off my chest now , I just need to redress the balance of this missive ( and maybe my karma)  finishing off by stating that yer average Indian type person is about ten times as charming and hospitable as yer average English and I’m constantly bowled over by the thoughtfulness of the people I meet and interact with, even complete strangers.

Off up into the Ghats tomorrow for an overnight stay, it’s the time of year when the forest trees are flowering, not only is this a beautiful sight but also provides a great opportunity for birding as many normally furtive species  like Scimitar Bablers will come to feed on the rich sources of nectar or on the insects that come to the flowers.

Chaloo!

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Getting better....

Yesterday I had a revelation: Absence from pain is an unbeliveably wonderful thing! After the episodic pain of my kidney infection, each time it dissapeared it left me feeling 'high',  genuinely high, in fact it was a real super quality high and all achieved by ....erm...'natural' means! Maybe my bloodstream was flooded with endorphins. If thats the case... where can I score me some?

But 'seriously folks' it really did make me appreciate that every waking moment free from pain is something to be savoured, but... how to hang onto this impression? I've been free from pain for over 36 hours now and almost every minute I have had at least a fleeting thought as to how marvellous this is! I know that sadly, this feeling will fade...

What a fab example of the ying/yang principle though, no pleasure without pain etc etc....

I have just reviewed some of the new Architects material and I have to say that I'm totally blown away by it. Its funny cos they've made no secret of their admiration for Coldplay and other stuff that is ( seemingly, at first listen anyway) a gazillion miles away from the 'racket' that they churn out. Well, I suspect quite a lot of people are going to be in for a serious shock, not least a significant proportion of thier fanbase, cos the new stuff is such a progression, delving deeply into the realms of melody and conventional song structure that they are bound to attract some criticism from the hardcore meatalcore folk but I am convinced that this new album will see thier entry into a new and higher stratum of recognition. I can really feel it, I'll be interested to see if this prediction actually comes true because despite trying hard its ultra difficult to be 100% objective when talking about ones offsprings efforts. What can I say! The new album will be FUCKING AMAZING!

Not quite sure where it comes from tho' me Mum was quite musical and my sister , heather can knock out a chune on the piano, guitar, etc etc but this is something else, the ability to create a 'new' tune, seemingly from thin air!

Whatever.

More soon.

Monday, January 25, 2010

My support for the Indian Pharma Industry

Woke up in the middle of the night in my Delhi hotel room with a horrible intense toothache type pain in my left kidney and the inability to pee. Bummer. It lasted a couple of hours and then abruptly disappeared. Flew back to Mumbai and on arriving back at the apartment had another ‘episode’. Saw the doctor on Saturday morning and he prescribed some tablets:

Cyclopam: Dicyclomine Hydrochloride and Paracetamol - An antispasmodic analgesic
Rabeprazole: ???

….. And told me to drink  a minimum of four litres of water per day. All was fine for the rest of Saturday and Sunday and I was hopeful but alas early Monday morning the pain was back together with the inability to wee. Monday morning and the doctor was back. This time he took a urine sample for analysis. Analysis found puss and so I was then prescribed:

Citro-Soda: Urinary alkalizer
Norflox-200:  Norfloxin and lactic bacillus tablet

I’ve also got some Spasmo-Proxyvon pain killer caps only for use if the pain becomes unbearable.

Now: Add this to the:

Coversyl Arginine tablets for my blood pressure and
Ezetimibe tablets for chloesterol control

…and I’m beginning to feel like I should be rattling.

Its Republic day  today  and I was woken this morning by the Indian national anthem blaring out of what must be many PA  systems around the town, with the many uncoordinated sources and the echos from the high rises it’s a garbled mishmash of voices and strings that is barely recognisable. There’s going to be parades, concerts, dancing on the streets etc. Its all a bit self congratulatory  and I feel, rather self deceiving, the newspapers this morning being full of ‘aren’t we great?’ type stories in the face of  crumbing infrastructure, hopeless health and education systems, massive corruption, wholesale environmental destruction etc etc. Nevertheless the blossoming of the Indian middleclass continues at what seems to me to be an ever increasing rate and the burgeoning demand for ‘goods’, the consumerism that everybody seems to think is so wonderful flies so much in the face of the Ghandian ideals that its beyond irony. I was stunned to see widely advertised, a massively expensive pen manufactured by Mont Blanc, the ‘Ghandi’ edition and to see Ghandijis face on huge advertising billboards rising about the slums, presenting a 200 pound biro absolutely amazes me. He would, I am certain turn in his grave.
The lie that material goods make you happy and fulfilled is perhaps more widely purveyed in India than anywhere else I have ever been and this from a nation who’s culture tells us that  that material goods are a trap.
I dunno, its beyond me and its time for me to drink yet another litre of water.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

FD

Gor lummy gov its bleedin parky in Delhi and I did not come to India to be 'parky', oh no siree. Thick fog 'n'all, by midday theres a feeble sun which warms the air to about 20C by five its almost dark and we're back to 'parky'  once again. Really looking forward to my return to Bombay and lots more of that real bone warming heat that I so crave staying in a bit of a third rate hotel, well put it thi way, its not 5* . Staff dont have much Eeengleesh but even so how can I go wrong ordering food? Very easily as it turns out - this is the room service conversation that I've just enjoyed:

'Hello Room sevice?'
' Hello?'
'Hello room service?'
'Hello'?
'Can - You Hear Me'
'Yes sir'
Can I order some food?
'yes sir'
'I'd like a vegetable biryani please'
'An egg Jalfrezi?'
'No an vegetable biryani'
 'An egg Jalfrezi?'
'No! A Veg Et Able Bi-Ry-An-I '
'Sorry sir' - a pause.

New voice

'Room service'
'Ah!  Can I have a Vegetable Biryani please?'
'Sorry sir?'
'A Veg Et Able Bi-Ry-An-I '
'You want one egg what sir?'

'Tell you what I'll come down to reception'

Oh yes, the telly dont work and theres no heating - And the beer that I ordered half an hour ago has yet to arrive...

This would not happen in sunny Bombay.....

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Back

Yes folks, I'm back in Inja for a couple of months. An exceptionally smooth flight with absolutely no issues save for my unreasonable irritation at the entirely predictable behavior of my fellow passengers:

1) Loosing all sense of politeness when boarding, being seeming desperate to get to thier seats.
2) The person in front of me immediately putting thier seat into full recline AND then stretching thier arms up and back over thier headrest such that they actually interfere with my view of the screen.
3) Being even more desperate to get off the flight pushing and shoving etc.
4) Having rushed to get off the plane then dawdling in the corridors and standing on elevators.
Actually 4 is good cos it means that I can wait until the plane is virtually empty and then by walking briskly and taking the stairs I can beat 95% of them to immigration.

Other points of note were that my baggage was forth and sixth piece off the carosel respectively. There was a slight hiccup at incoming baggage screening in Mumbai when I thought I was going to have to go through the experience of being detained for questioning (again) about the dutiable status of my camera equipment and I did have to report to the customs office where a rather nice young Indian lady in a very smart white customs uniform asked to look in my bag. When she saw my binoculars she asked if she could have a go and spent a couple of minutes looking through them and giggling whereupon I was told I could go.

Birding this morning in Karnala, and pre-dawn the temperature must have been as low as 15C! Karnala was good with some good birds seen including the best views I have ever had of Large brown Barbet. Then we went to take a look at the Uran wetlands and was pretty devastated to find that the whole bleedin lot has been filled in. Gone, under countless tonnes of hardcore, square miles of marshland that was incredibly species rich, unbelievable. Progress I guess. Even so spirits were lifted by a great view of a female Pallid Harrier. Back here for a late morning doze ( only got three hours sleep last night). Delhi tomorrow and back to the cold, it has been as low as 4C there these last few days....
Still cant quite shake off the usual feeling of unreality caused, I'm guessing by a combination of jet lag and the extreme difference in culture, climate etc etc....
A few film recommendations: 'Moon' is quite entertaining as is 'Surrogates' and have just watched a film called 'Traitor' whis is a halfway intelligent look at Islamic extremeism. What is it with all these single word film titles? Saw 'Avatar' (in 3D natch) back in Brighton, probably the best film I have ever seen that I have absolutely no desire to sit through ever again. A strange combination of amazing and boring.....
Anyway, hope to get these blog updates back on track now that I'm back in the subcontinent and the muse is upto strength.